![]() Or you can do what I did for my filtration chambers and hire a mason. Just keep working and you will get better as you lay more block. The mortar sticks to the dry block much better. Make sure the block is dry when applying the mortar. Being this precise also helps when I color the mortar for grout in keeping the color consistent from batch to batch. The mason I hired did use the bag mixes, but he added about 1/2 shovel full of fire clay for every 2 bags. I do not use the bag mixes because it gets too expensive with all of the block, rock, and fake rock work I have to do. ![]() Now I know that I am being excessively technical with the mix, but I have found that I do not do enough masonry work to get a consistant mix with using shovel fulls to measure the amounts. You do not necessarily need the mortar stands, saw horses work okay. Wet the plywood before putting the mortar on it. I bought X Frame Mortar stands and use a piece of plywood to put the mixed mortar on to work from. This seems to stick well, work well, and last for about 45 minutes before it gets too hard to wet down. Then, the water I add a little bit at a time until I get it to the consistency of stiff tooth paste. I dry mix everything in the wheel barrow. I fill and scrape the material level with the top of the bucket. I use a 5 qt painter's bucket as my measuring cup. It is 1 part cement, 1/4 part lime, 1/4 part fire clay, 2.75 parts sand, and about 3/4 part water. I use a receipe I got from a book on cement, concrete, mortar. Here is how I do it to get things to work for me. I am the absolute most amature when it comes to laying block.
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